Inis Oírr (Inisheer in
English)
Inis Oirr, which is the smallest of the Aran Islands and
has about 250 residents, does not have a suitable harbour in which to leave a
yacht unattended. The new pier is used by the ferry, but even on a calm day,
the amount of swell coming into the harbour made that berth rather boisterous.
When the wind picked up, the exposed anchorage, harbour, and beach area made
for a very uncomfortable chop. The best way to visit Inis Oirr (Inisheer) is
by ferry from the mainland or from Inis Maan. |
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Coming Ashore
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Houses are built in clusters on the north side of the
island which is sheltered. There are five villages: Baile Thiar, Baile an
Lurgain, Baile an tSéipéil, Baile an Chaisleáin and Baile an Fhormna. The
island is within the Gaeltacht, the Irish speaking area of the West, and some
of the islanders do not have a great command of English. They are very
welcoming and do their best to accommodate visitors. |
Walking the loops on the island is a great activity on a
good weather day. The walks are relatively easy and mostly along paved roads
and boreens. The main attractions are the wreck of the Plassy, the Lighthouse,
St. Coamhans Church, and O’Brien’s Castle and the signal tower. The views over
the harbour are spectacular. The beach at the base of the village is long and
lovely with water clear as ice and the colour of Caribbean blues and greens. Currachs
were stored there on beer barrels, which seemed like a very fitting
combination. |
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The Plassy started life as the HMT Juliet, a steam trawler
launched in 1940. On the 8th of March 1960, while sailing from
Galway to Fenit with a cargo of whiskey, stained glass, and yarn, she was
caught in a SE gale and ran onto Finnis Rock. The crew of eleven were taken
safely off using a breeches buoy, the first time it was ever used in Ireland. She
then was lifted onto the island in a second storm two years later where she
rests until today. We forgot to ask what happened to the cargo but we hope the
whiskey at least was saved. |
Walking the island one wonders how the islanders ever eked
a living off the island. Even today, there are few sheep or cattle in evidence,
the amount of rock in the walls is astounding, and the practice of creating
soil in lazy beds made of seaweed and sand is impressive. The walls of Inis
Oirr are massive and yet many fields still lie buried under rock. Early in
March, we were fortunate enough to witness a spectacle the likes of which none
of us had ever seen. Two fields, isolated from all the others, tightly abloom
with millions of daffodils. The vibrant colour and life of the floral display
against the starkness and harshness of the rock walls was cause to stop, admire
and wonder with sheer joy. Across from the fields was a beautiful lake (An
Loch Mor) with rocky shore punctuated by standing stones. |
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Amenities on the island include an arts and cultural
centre, well provisioned shop, post office, campsite, bike hire, health clinic,
library, pubs, Catholic Church, cafes and restaurants, a hotel, hostel,
B&Bs, two schools and a co- operative. There is also a craft centre and
heritage home, but they were not open when we were there. |
The Hotel Inis Oirr Facilities include a restaurant, bar
and lounge. The dining room overlooks a castle and serves fresh local
seafood with full wine and bar facilities on request for non-residents. (http://www.hotelinisoirr.com/)
We stopped at the Fisherman’s Cottage for lunch which was delightful. The best local
fish cakes with bottled beer washed down well. It is not easy to find however,
as it is tucked in at the end of the road just before the road turns back
towards the harbour. Look for a carved stone in the wall announcing its
presence. |
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On the short walk from there to the harbour, we were early
for the ferry and stopped in for a pint at Tigh Ned’s for pints. Those
interested in Six Nations were glued to the big screen in front of a roaring
fire while we studied the many historical photos and objects on display. A very
comfortable pub it was in which to pass an hour or so. The ride back on the
ferry, which has seen better days, was not quite so comfortable, as the seas
had kicked up quite a fuss while we waited. All in all, it was a fine spring
day on Inis Oirr and we thank the residents for their welcome. |
Useful
links:
Ferries
- From Galway (Rossaveel)
- From Doolin, Co. Clare
Flights
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