Inishbofin, Island of the White Cow

A magnificent island off the coast of Connemara, County Galway

Inishbofin, offshore and south of Killary, is perhaps our favourite island to visit. It is the most spectacular natural harbour we’ve ever encountered. The first approach into the anchorage is rather daunting as the channel runs just a few feet from the cliff on which the lighthouse is perched. The current running through there can be foul and the winds can be blowing across the entrance heartily. There is a range marker consisting of two towers lined up in improbable positions on shore, and it takes a leap of faith and careful watch of the GPS chart plotter to make it through (not that this is that much help here, as the GPS coordinates do not match the underlying charts dating to the 1800s). Once inside, there is deep crystal clear aqua blue water over white sand bottom with good holding if you have the right tackle. We tried out our new Quickset anchor here and watched it set and bury just like in the movies.

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Bofin Harbour is surrounded almost entirely by steep rocky outcroppings. On the south side the cliffs are topped with a spectacular ruin of a Cromwellian Fort. The village sports two piers, one being a large new jetty where the ferry deposits day and overnight trippers. At the head of the village is a world class spa.

Here, you drop anchor and enjoy spectacular sunsets aboard before heading to the local pub to find out all the local news. The post office and general store is open daily as is the tiny museum and heritage centre in the summer. Bike rentals are available when the ferry arrives. Biking and hiking the island is the way to go. At low tide, you can cross over from the main island to explore Cromwell’s fort and penal colony dating to the 1600s. Nearby is the site where Grace O’Malley, the pirate queen of the west had a stronghold. St. Colman founded a monastery here in 668, and prehistoric Celts built a fort at least 1000 years BC. As everywhere in Ireland, history abounds.

You can take your bike and ride out all over the island. You will find long sandy beaches for swimming and remote villages where traditional summer cottages are rented as holiday homes. There are several hotels with restaurants at which to enjoy a light lunch along the way. It’s a delightful escape from modern life, although internet is available in the harbour and cell phone coverage was better than on the mainland. Then there’s also the spa for a rainy day pursuit.

Leaving Bofin Harbour, one has to negotiate around nearby Inishark, an island abandoned in 1960. It now lies deserted and battered by the Atlantic. Its harbour is only approachable in the best of weather. It will probably never be inhabited again.

Useful Links:

• http://www.inishbofin.com/
• Ferry: http://www.inishbofinislanddiscovery.com/