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Slight change of plans, Lobstah and CultchahWe had it all worked out. BoatUS insurance would take us through Maine, Pantaneus around the ROW (rest of world). Then there was a slight SNAFU. The underwriters won't carry US flagged vessels into Newfoundland from either direction. But Boat US will cover us as far as Nova Scotia and Pantaneus will cover us from 20 miles offshore anywhere outside of the Americas. Interesting, if we were a Irish flagged vessel, we could get coverage anywhere we wanted to go. Hmmmm. I guess they don't trust Americans around 20 foot tides.So, although we planned to cruise Newfoundland, it looks like we'll be leaving from Nova Scotia instead. Oh well, reason to come back. Great reason to spend a few more days in Maine. So far, amazing vistas, amazing food, amazing weather, amazing experience. We have already fallen into a different rhythm of life. We get up with the sun and go to sleep with the darkness. We eat when we are hungry, make smaller meals, and are both becoming fitter surprisingly quickly. There is a new kind of tiredness - a healthy exhaustion that makes for sound sleep in the rocking cradle of Aleria. We started out in Tenants Harbor where we had the best lobstah, steamah and mussel dinnah evah. Cod End Restaurant, God loves yah! Then a succession of Rockland, Rockport, and Camden. In Rockland, we found lots of "cultchah" as Wednesday nights all the galleries and museums are open till 8 pm and are free after 5. Ohmygosh, the f word - free- is so important to a cruising budget. The Farnsworth Museum is an amazing gem with Wyeth collections plus soooo much more. This is not a minor holding! The Harbor Square Gallery across the street is even more amazing. Like nothing either of us have ever seen anywhere. So pleasing. Rooftop scupture garden a must see. We could have lived there gleefully except we couldn't afford to buy it out. Rockland's renaissance is quite successful. Friday saw a parade of tall ships - about a dozen or so - and the weekend blues festival was to be an event to behold by all accounts. We met up with AYC's Tango, who came up from NC but we left before the concerts on the waterfront happened! Not in the mood for crowds just yet. In Rockport, we met another Bowman 57 owner who had read our article in CW. Way cool to compare notes on a boat so few people know. I also showed Alex around town as this is where I was about to move when I met him. He convinced me Ireland was the mirror image since they had been connected once, so I should go with him to balmy Ireland instead of frigid Maine. And here we are heading out to Ireland via Maine. Who would have thought the day would actually arrive? Camden, though more touristy, is beautiful from atop the hill in the park looking down into the harbor. The light was so magnificent and the classic boats here, including the schooner fleet, made it most memorable. Met Julie who owns a gallery/shop in town and is married to a Tazmanian. They just sold their 16 acre property up the Camden hill for $3.5 mm. They're going sailing on their Cabo Rico 34 any day now. Our paths will cross again. Others were complaining about the economy and the area does appear to be suffering. We stopped for ice cream in Gilkey Harbor but made no sightings of Travolta and friends. On our way to a quiet evening on the hook at Pulpit Harbor. Glorious sailing. People are coming out of the wordwork just to be nice and human. It's a bit hard to get accustomed to, but we are trying. Everyone looks you in the eye and really talks to you here! Human beings not human doings. So far, sooooooo good. Oh yeah, today's it's blue sky with puffy clouds, 15-20 kts, 75 degrees. No fog. Did God turn Maine into heaven for sailors? Daria, Alex, Onyx s/v Aleria |
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